they perform important functions which the synthetic formulations do not

When used in reference to fertilizers, the word organic generally means that the nutrients contained in the product are derived solely from the remains or a by-product of an organism. Cottonseed meal, blood meal, fish emulsion, manure and sewage sludge are examples of organic fertilizers. Urea is a synthetic organic fertilizer, an organic substance manufactured from inorganic materials.

When packaged as fertilizers, organic products have the fertilizer ratio stated on the package label. Some organic materials, particularly composted manures and sludges, are sold as soil conditioners and do not have a nutrient guarantee stated on the package, although small amounts of nutrients are present.

Some organic fertilizers are high in one of the three major nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, or potash,) but low or zero in the other two. Some are low in all three macronutrients. A few organic products can be purchased "fortified" for a higher nutrient analysis. The ingredients used to fortify organic fertilizers are organic materials; for example, rock phosphate to increase phosphorus, or greensand to increase potash.

Organic fertilizers depend on soil organisms to break them down to release nutrients; therefore, most are effective only when soil is moist and warm enough for the microorganisms to be active. Nutrient release by microbial activity, in general, occurs over a fairly long time period. One potential drawback is that the organic fertilizer may not release enough of their principal nutrient when the plant needs it for growth.
Cottonseed meal is a by-product of cotton manufacturing. As a fertilizer, it produces a somewhat acidic reaction; consequently, it is frequently used for fertilizing acid-loving plants such as azaleas, camellias, and rhododendrons. Formulas vary slightly, but generally, cottonseed meal contains 7 percent nitrogen, 3 percent phosphorus, and 2 percent potash. Nutrients are most readily available to plants in warm soils, but there is little danger of burn.
Blood meal is dried, powdered blood collected from cattle slaughterhouses. It is a rich source of nitrogen, so rich, in fact, that it may burn plants if used in excess. Gardeners must be careful not to exceed the recommended amount suggested on the label. In addition to nitrogen, blood meal supplies some essential trace elements, including iron.
Fish emulsion, a balanced, organic fertilizer, is a partially decomposed blend of finely pulverized fish. A strong odor is associated with most brands of fish emulsion fertilizer, but the smell dissipates within a day or two. Recently, deodorized brands have been developed.

Fish emulsion is high in nitrogen and is a source of several trace elements. Contrary to popular belief, too strong a solution can burn plants, particularly those growing in containers. In the late spring, when garden plants have sprouted, an application of fish emulsion followed by a deep watering will boost the plants' early growth spurt.
Manure is a complete fertilizer, but low in the amount of nutrients it supplies. Manures vary in nutrient content according to the animal source and what the animal has been eating. A fertilizer ratio of 1-1-1 is typical. Commonly available manures include horse, cow, pig, chicken and sheep.

The highest nutritional concentration is found in manure when it is fresh. As it is aged, exposed to weather, or composted, nutrient content is reduced. However, most gardeners prefer to use composted forms of manure to ensure lesser amounts of salts, thereby reducing the chance of burning plant roots. Because of its low concentration of plant nutrients, manure is best used as a soil conditioner instead of a fertilizer. Typical rates of manure applications vary from a moderate 70 pounds per 1000 square feet to as much as one ton per 1000 square feet.

Sewer sludge is a recycled product of municipal sewage treatment plants. Two forms are commonly available: activated and composted. Activated sludge has higher concentrations of nutrients (approximately 6-3-0) than composted sludge. It is usually sold in a dry, granular form for use as a general purpose, longlasting, nonburning fertilizer. Composted sludge is used primarily as a soil amendment and has a lower nutrient content (approximately 1-2-0).
There is some question about the long term effects of using sewage sludge products in the garden, particularly around edible crops. Heavy metals such as cadmium, sometimes present in the sludge, may build up in the soil. Possible negative effects vary with the origin of the sludge and with the characteristics of the soil where it is used.

Compared to synthetic fertilizer formulations,organic fertilizers contain relatively low concentrations of actual nutrients, but they perform important functions which the synthetic formulations do not. They increase the organic content and consequently the water-holding capacity of the soil. They improve the physical structure of the soil which allows more air to get to plant roots. Where organic sources are used for fertilizer, bacterial and fungal activity increases in the soil. Mycorrhizal fungi which make other nutrients more available to plants thrive in soil where the organic matter content is high. Organically derived plant nutrients are slow to leach from the soil making them less likely to contribute to water pollution than synthetic fertilizers.
(Excerpted from The Virginia Gardener Handbook, Diane Relf, Editor.)

organic fertilizer recipe

This concoction will make any plant thrive without inviting pests with nitrogen overkill! This is great with flowers, shrubs, and vegetables.

4 parts Seaweed meal

3 parts Granite dust

1 part dehydrated manure

1 part bonemeal

Mix all ingredients in a bucket then spread around the base of your plants. Water the mix in well. Repeat two more times during the growing season

fertilizing more than once can be hostile to your lawn

The methods discussed in these pages are going to require time and effort on the part of the homeowner, gardener or landscaper. If you are willing and able you can save a lot of money and create a soil rich in nutrients to produce the quality turf you're looking for. And you don't have to use chemicals. Again, if you have the time you'll find direction in these pages. But if you are like most and want rolling acres of beautiful turf and you want it now then the local landscapers and fertilizing contractors might be the best option for you.

Every spring I can't help but notice and cringe when I see everyone and their brother fertilizing their lawns.The key to productive fertilization is to do so sparingly, especially in the spring. When you apply fertilizer in the spring you are encouraging heavy top growth. This discourages the grass roots from growing and extending deep into the soil to search for nutrients. All you end up doing is mowing more frequently thus encouraging a thick thatch. Sure, you'll have to be more vigilant with weed control but a springtime application isn't necessarily helping to encourage strong, healthy turf. If you are spreading fertilizer with weed control to discourage new weed growth there are other techniques to be considered before creating a chemically volatile soil.

My personal preference is to use organic compounds. When looking for organic fertilizers there are three major nutrients; nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. You can find them in granule form at your local nurseries and garden supply stores. Or, if the case may be, ask your landscaper to use the organic compounds. Compost and manure are also good sources of nitrogen. Your grass clippings also do this naturally. Bagging is a waste. Just be sure that the decomposition rate for your clippings can keep up with the mowing schedule that you keep. See Mowing Chart for the specifics. Fish emulsions are a great source of potassium and phosphorus. The native American Indians were really on to something with this. It can be expensive but if you've got a lot of money invested in uncommon or exotic plants or shrubs you'll be wise to append to this advice. Wood ash is another good source of potassium. I save my fireplace ashes all winter long stored next to my compost pile to utilize in spring.

Herbacides: Preemergent issometimes necessary in spring and most preemergents combine weed killing with fertilizing. However, if you have a healthy dose of fertilizer in the fall and a good regiment of weed removal and soil conditioning, spring applications aren't really necessary. Spot spraying herbacide is a technique I utilize. Spot spraying is what it says; spraying only where it is needed. Your not completely covering the entire lawn surface. If you spot spray, especially perennial weeds left over from the previous growing season, systematically, you'll have a better chance of defeating the enemy. I recommend spot spraying before each mow as they're easier to see. And as you mow, make mental notes of any spots you may have missed and spray those after you've finished mowing. Remember, spring is the rainy season. The nitrogen levels in the rain water will produce a natural, deep green. Fertilizing in the spring is a waste of time, money and precious gasoline.

In northern climates, the best time to fertilize is in the fall. In southern climates early summer is best, before the dog days arrive. We'll post more on this as time permits.

See Understanding Fertilizers , Fall Lawn Care, Good Soil Conditioning and Lawn Core Aeration for additional information in areas that effect fertilization.