weed preventing and solutions- There are a number of different methods of weed prevention and removal. We hope you'll finds some tips and tools useful in your combat against weeds.

controlling clover and wild violets

Clover and wild violets are a lot alike. In their own space they can be enjoyed but if they are in your lawn you probably want to control them. We've got an unusual amount of rabbits in our area and they help us control them. I'd rather them fill up on clover than my perennials so I'm not too aggressive with the clove.

According to studies performed at Ohio State University, you have a couple of ideal opportunities; the "mid-May to mid-June period when most weeds are actively growing, temperatures are moderate, and moisture adequate in the root zone. The other time is late summer, about mid-September to mid-October before it gets too cool."

Broadleaf weed killer does not do much against them, but studies have shown that the best control was achieved using triclopyr. Wild violet, white clover and other difficult weeds such as ground ivy, try any product that contains triclopyr. You can find it in most garden supply stores. Look at the front label, and check that the active ingredient statement on the back says it is triclopyr.

Mulch... The Ultimate Gardening Tool

Besides the cosmetics, mulch provides numerous benefits for your landscape. And it’s a great tool for gardening, too. Most of us use it to reduce the weeding tasks but mulch has other advantages. Mulch does keep out the weeds pretty effectively. It also reduces loss of moisture through evaporation; drying of the sun and wind. 

But it can also decrease the compaction of soil and good, breathing soil promotes healthy roots and this also helps to stabilize soil temperatures. In northern climates, a fall mulching inspection is a great and often overlooked task.

Mulch also protects against certain disease brought on by insects. Beetles like to lay eggs at the bases of plants, but a good layer of mulch will make them nest somewhere else. Mulch does attract slugs however, especially in the heat of the summer. They are pretty active in temperatures between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit, but much warmer than that and they’ll head for deep shade on mulch or leaves or any ground cover they can find. Don’t fret though; these guys can be dealt without using extreme measures. We’ll lay out your options in the slugs and snails section of pest control pages.

There are all kinds of mulch. The choices will boggle the mind. There’s peat moss, grass clippings, chopped leaves, sawdust, straw, compost, shredded bark, pine needles, stones and even seaweed. Yes, I said seaweed; just make sure you taste it before you lay it. Seriously, if it’s salty don’t use it, or rinse well first. I may be forgetting some, but for the most part any of these will work well.

Mulch is also great to put down in fall to winterize your beds. They help keep vital microorganisms healthy and keep them working close to the surface. A slight decomposition in mulch is also great for keeping your soil nutritious.

A good 2 inches at least; 4 is even better. This is the easiest method for keeping out weeds.

kicking weeds out of your beds

an introduction to weed control in the garden

Just in time for spring, we’ve posted some pertinent information here.  Weeds have to be removed, there’s just no question, by whatever means necessary in order to maintain a healthy lawn. They are in stiff competition for nutrients and water and as they grow and strengthen they become even more aggressive. They also become safe havens for harmful insects and disease that can even settle in for winter and be raring to go in spring. They can even harbor in dead weeds. But the most troublesome task for most is simply identifying the weed. If you need to, reference a weed identification guide from your local library. You can also look up your local County Extension Service. They’ll be glad to hear from you.

The majority of weeds are annuals. They produce and distribute large amounts of seeds per plant. This is genetic as they will need to ensure the chances of the species survival over the winter. All they’ll need then is some soil to settle in, some sunshine and spring rain and they’re back in business. So the best, most vigilant approach to fighting annuals is to hinder their seed developing, or “nip it in the bud,” as Barney Fife used to say. When you clip the blossom of a flowering weed you’ll destroy it’s chances of producing seeds.

The method we’d recommend has two objectives; one would be to hinder their reproductive cycle and two; prevent them from germinating early in the growing season. This would require “turning” or “cultivating” the soil. In your flower beds or around shrubs and trees rotor-till the soil, about two weeks before planting your flowers. Any annual seeds from the surface soil will be turned under and those that do germinate, just rake lightly after the weak, young seedlings have sprouted. They won’t stand a chance of survival and the ones that you buried can’t grow because they require light. 

Now you can plant your seeds or flowers. Then in about two weeks you can mulch, or lightly cultivate, whatever you choose; this will make it difficult for any more seeds to germinate. Hand plucking weeds is much easier after a good thick layer of mulch has been applied. As for perennials; there’s another challenge. These guys are tougher and can grow right through thick beds of mulch, peek into your kitchen and scream, “feed me!” The best way to control a perennial is to control their roots. The tough part is, their roots can have enormously intricate systems. “Thistles can colonize an area 3 to 6 feet in diameter in one or two years. Canada thistle grows in a variety of soils and can tolerate up to 2 percent salt content. It is most competitive in deep, well-aerated, productive, cool soils.” Colorado State University Extension. These things are downright evil. By these illustrations you can understand why some just cannot be pulled up. They develop into networks. And if you rotor-till these roots they will exponentially sprout back, because the roots regenerate. If you have a weed removal tool you will have a decent chance to fight them without chemicals. This will require persistence and diligence. You will need to remove at least 4-5 inches below the surface of the soil, and even then they can rejuvenate. This procedure may take several times but will eventually tire the plant out as it doesn’t see enough light to become strong.

A good soap-based herbicide usually does the trick. Ask your local garden shop, they’ll know. Even one of the sponsors in this web page can answer questions for you. But try to find one that’s bio-friendly, it’s safer for you and your pets. They have a fatty acid in the formula mixture that dries the weed; the soap helps it to adhere to the leaf.

To make your own herbicidal soap, use use a concentration of 2 Tsp of liquid dishwashing soap in 1 gallon of water. Pour it into a spray bottle and apply by spraying. This concentration should not harm the grass but try to only coat the weed itself.  This will coat the leaves with a sticky soap preventing photosynthesis. For best results apply on a dry, hot day when the sun is at it's peak.